When Lucullus Cooks for Lucullus: Parma Ham and Provolone Pastries

My grandfather was a Frenchman who instilled in me a deep appreciation for food. He wasn’t much of a cook, but he loved to eat. When you dined with him, food was something to be savored and talked about.

Thus, it’s fitting that the story I recall him telling time and again was about Lucius Lucullus a celebrated Roman general and bon vivant. Lucullus was known for his extravagant parties. However, on a rare night when he found himself dining alone, his staff assumed he would want a simple meal. So, his cooks were surprised when he asked for the finest food. They questioned him.

“Why would you want all of this if you are dining alone?”

“Alone?” Lucullus, declared. “Why tonight, Lucullus is dining with Lucullus.”

As a kid, I loved hearing the way my grandfather told it. At the time I took it to mean that dinner is an event to be celebrated. However over the years, I have found a deeper appreciation for why he shared it with us.

Recently, while reading a copy of M.F.K. Fisher’s An Alphabet for Gourmets. I was surprised when I saw the same tale of Lucullus mentioned in her chapter entitled “A is for Dining Alone.” Her perspective on the tale was about dining in restaurants. She originally wrote the piece in the late 1930s when women could be looked down upon for eating out alone. So I was thrilled to hear her thoughts about the story and its enduring message.

Nevertheless , I always remember my grandfather telling me the story when he was in his kitchen or talking about buying himself some wonderful French cheeses. So, I have always associated it with cooking. Because cooking for yourself is a powerful act of self-love. While it’s certainly wonderful to cook for others, there is a certain “je ne sais quoi” to making something you love just for yourself.

Now when I find myself alone in the kitchen or cooking for just my daughters, I think of Lucullus and seize the moment to make what I adore. So, the recipe I thought I would share is one that I make for myself, a Parma Ham and Provolone Pastries. The puff pastry makes it decadent, but it’s easy to put together. I like to serve it with a simple grape salad with a champagne vinaigrette. It’s a meal I find worthy of those nights when “Lucullus is dining with Lucullus.”

Parma Ham and Provolone Pastries

  • 1 (17 oz) package of frozen puff pastry, defrosted
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
  • 4 slices of Parma ham or prosciutto cut in half
  • 8 slices of provolone cheese slices
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 tablespoon water

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

First, on a floured surface or silicone baking mat roll one sheer of the puff pastry to a 12 by 12 inch square

Then cut that square into four smaller squares. Lightly spread each pastry square with Dijon mustard. Next top the center of the pastry square with a half a slice of Parma ham and a slice of provolone cheese that has been torn or cut in half. I cut the cheese so it can easily be folded over in the next step.

Then fold in half diagonally to create a triangle and crimp and seal the edges of the pastry with the tines of a fork. Then create a few steam holes by pricking the top of each triangle with the fork 2 or 3 times. Repeat this process with the remaining sheet of puff pastry.

Next, make an egg wash. In a small bowl whisk together 1 egg and 1 tablespoon of water. Brush the egg wash on top of the pastries right before baking. Bake on baking stones or a sheet pan lined with parchment paper for 15 to 20 minutes until golden brown. Meanwhile, while the Parma ham and provolone pastries are baking make the salad.

Grape Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette

  • 1/2 cup walnut or pecan pieces
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 cup red or green seedless grapes
  • 1 (4.5 oz) package baby romaine lettuce

First make the candied nuts. In a small skillet place the sugar and the nuts over medium heat. Keep a close eye on it and stir with a rubber spatula as the sugar melts and coats the nuts. Remove the nuts from the pan immediately and place them on sheet of aluminum foil or parchment paper to allow the nuts to cool.

Next, slice the grapes in half and chop the lettuce into bit sized pieces. In a medium bowl gently mix together the, lettuce, grapes and nuts. Add the salad dressing to taste. See recipe below.

Champagne Vinaigrette

  • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
  • 3 tablespoons champagne vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1/3 cup vegetable oil

In a small mixing bowl whisk together the Dijon mustard, champagne vinegar, sugar and salt. Then slowly drizzle in the oil while continuing to whisk it until the salad dressing emulsifies.

So set the table with your favorite flowers and a beautiful plate. Most importantly, take time to cook what you love, because life and dinner are worth celebrating!

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