I usually don’t usually post my newspaper columns on my blog but this one was too fun not to share. So here is the tale of my recent historic recipe challenge.
I love a good cooking challenge. So, I had no reservations when I agreed to write a 150th village anniversary column featuring a historic Hinsdale recipe. That was until I found myself in the basement of the historical society talking about hospital food.
As it turns out, the oldest known cookbook in Hinsdale is a collection of vegetarian recipes from the Hinsdale Hospital called The Sanitarium Cook Book. The book dates back to 1921 and was written by the hospital’s chief dietician and chef, Curtis C. Benedict. As I was examining the pages trying to decide on a recipe, there were more than a few staunchly healthy dishes that had my taste buds cringing like asparagus broth, cream of lettuce soup, and mock salmon salad.
Determined to find something more exciting I kept looking. Eventually, as I was reading the baking chapter, I found a recipe that was both historically significant and delicious – angel food cake. Angel food is a uniquely American cake that originated in in the mid to late 1800’s around the time of Hinsdale’s founding in 1873. There are some origin stories that place the cake’s creation in St. Louis, but the first widely published recipe was in the New York Times in 1880.
Back home in my kitchen with the cake recipe in hand, I was eager to begin. As I studied the recipe, I suddenly felt like I was a contestant on The Great British Bakeoff. Here I was competing in my own technical baking challenge. First, the recipe called for a “slow oven” which had me wondering how low of a temperature is slow? Next, many of the older measurements required mathematical conversions. Then there were cooking questions that I had never pondered before, like exactly how many eggs are in a pint? So, I did some calculations and sketched out a quick plan.
A short time later, I was baking. My stand mixer was on overdrive beating all the egg whites and sugar. Then after folding in the flour, it was time to place the cake in the oven. I found myself doing an oven dance – wondering how the cake was baking but not daring to open the door. Then came more waiting as the cake had to cool upside down.
But as I tipped the cake out of the pan it was fluffy, golden and everything I had hoped for. Now for the real test, the judges. My blue-eyed Paul Hollywood of a husband let me know that angel food is not his favorite type of cake. Alas, a Hollywood handshake seemed unlikely, but there was not a crumb left on his plate.
Next were my two daughters. My youngest, a sweet Mary Berry of a judge gave it two thumbs up and a smile. Finally, the wildcard, my oldest who is more discerning. She definitely has Prue Leith’s “Is it worth the calories?” frame of mind. Surprisingly, she was the one who loved it most and gushed about how good it would be with whipped cream. Inspired, I went on to create a showstopper 150th anniversary edition of this cake with lemon whipped cream and berries. So, bakers I invite you to step into the tent and join me for a delicious slice of Hinsdale history.
The Great Hinsdalean Angel Food Cake
- 1 cup cake flour
- 2 tablespoons corn starch
- 3 ½ cups powdered sugar, divided
- 14 egg whites, at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon cream of tartar
- 2 teaspoons lemon zest
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a medium bowl sift together the flour, corn starch and 1 ¾ cups powdered sugar. Then in a second bowl sift the remaining 1 ¾ cups of powdered sugar.
Next, in the large bowl of a stand mixer with a balloon whisk beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy about 1 ½ minutes. Add cream of tartar and beat the egg whites on high until they triple in volume about 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the remaining 1 ¾ cup of the powdered sugar and continue to beat egg whites on medium low until the sugar in just mixed in. Turn the mixer to high and beat egg whites and sugar till stiff and glossy about 3 minutes.
Finally, fold half the flour mixture into the egg white using a rubber spatula. Next fold in the remaining flour and lemon zest.
Spoon the batter into a 10-inch angel food pan with a removable bottom. Do not grease the pan. Then run a table knife through the batter to remove air pockets and smooth the top. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes till golden.
Immediately turn the cake pan upside down to cool on the pan’s feet for 1 hour. Then use a long thin knife to release the cake from the pan by running the knife along the sides and center. Flip the cake onto a plate and use the knife to free the bottom of the cake pan.
Lemon Cream
- 2 cups heavy whipping cream
- ¼ cup powdered sugar
- 2 tablespoons lemon curd
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 3 pints of berries
- 1 bunch of mint
In a stand mixer mix with a balloon whisk mix add the cream and sugar. Beat on high until it holds a firm peak. Gently mix in lemon curd and vanilla.
If decorating the cake, use a serrated knife to cut the cake in half horizontally. Spread about one cup of lemon cream on the bottom layer. Evenly place berries on top to cover. Carefully place the top layer on the cake and spoon or pipe with swirls of the remaining lemon cream. Place the berries on top in groups. As final touch, add mint sprigs and edible flowers like pansies.
